A Day in Reine: (Lofoten Archipelago)
WOW the SLEEP TROLL MONSTER really grabbed me last night. I layed down for what I thought was a bit before the Arctic Circle Crossing, alas I awoke at 2300.
Norway consumes the most frozen pizza per person globally,
Up and at um at 0530 and down for pre breakfast coffee after capturing the sunrise.
I am hoping today will be a photo filled day as Lofoten is quite photogenic with it’s classic red fishing houses and dramatic mountains.
Human activity on the Lofoten archipelago can be traced back around 5,500 years, but the picture really comes into focus with the arrival of the Vikings. These hardy settlers were the first to discover that the Arctic winds – neither too humid, nor too dry – would preserve fish hung on hjell, or wooden racks. This lutefisk – or dried cod – was much sought-after and to meet demand, fishermen flocked to Norway from afar.
Reine, situated on the island of Moskenesøya, became a trading post in 1743 with its own fleet of boats, fish processing facilities and a growing collection of rorbuer – traditional fishermen’s huts on stilts – along the shore.
Sadly, in 1941, much of Reine’s historical architecture was destroyed by German bombing as retribution for a British raid on the Lofoten Islands, and many buildings had to be rebuilt. Further bad luck ensued two decades later when the demand for ‘white gold’ – cod – started to wane.
A side note on the cod harvest. Norwegian boys were used to cut the heads off of the cod and were paid well for such work. It was a great way for them to earn monies.
Reine was at risk of sinking into obscurity, but its fate took an upturn in the late 1970s when Allers, the country’s largest weekly magazine, deemed Reine to be the most beautiful village in Norway, ushering in a period of renewed interest from tourists.
Soon after Allers' plaudit, the small fishing village began to appear on the covers of magazines and guidebooks, due in part to its stunningly photogenic aspect. Fast forward to today and the town has mostly swapped fishing for tourism, with rorbu (old fishermen’s huts) converted into boutique hotel rooms and high-end restaurants.
Happily, though, popularity hasn’t turned the heads of locals, and the whiff of drying fish can still be discerned on the sea breeze, just as it has done for centuries. Lucky we are that the drying racks will be empty so the smell not as noticeable.
We were off the ship and trekking towards town at a bit before 0900.
We walked by a camping area which I would describe as a dry camping gravel parking lot. To park overnight (24 Hours) is 250NOK or about $25.00. A few folks had their chairs out and enjoying the sun.
Speaking of weather, it has been AMAZING. Every day thus far has been sunny and warm. Many of the local folks we have talked to said it had been raining day and night for three weeks prior to our arrival.
We walked past many fish drying racks and into town passing the Little Library.
Reine still has some fishing but is supported by tourist trade. This is evident by the number of lodging facilities and cafes. All seemed nice and quaint and I can see how someone might want to make Reine a holiday stay.
We continued past the waterfront Circle K and to the harbor area. It is nice to see the boats and red houses with the beautiful mountains in the background.
Next we went to the Culture Center past the Kirka (church) where some one was playing the organ. Sadly the doors were locked.
The Culture Center was very nice with a Gallery, National Park info center and a gift shop. I did find a buff at a very reasonable price.
Back to the Circle K where Lynn got an ice cream and I had a Brain Freezer (Frozen Coke). Oh look, the fishing store is open. I found a fishing lure and Lynn found a nice traditional wool sweater at an amazing price. So she got an early birthday present.
The scenic fishing town of Reine is compact and easily covered in few hours. Yes, a place one should visit . I should mention that on the way back we did observe a couple of Arctic Terns, I hope we start seeing more bird life.
Back onboard, we spent some time getting our writing caught up and then off to lunch. We will be sailing away at 1500.
It never ends
There was a very nice lecture on basic photography and later on deck had an enjoyable conversation with the ships photographer.
We did receive some sad news as we will not be visiting the Trollfjord as we have had a route change.
Calling it a day as we will be in Tromso tomorrow.
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