Honningsvåg Off To See Bamse:

 
Honningsvåg Off To See Bamse: 

 

The story of Bamse is heart touching. During WWII he fled Honningsvåg with his owner, a Captain in the Norwegian Navy. They fled with their ship to Scotland where they took on the duties of mine sweeping in the North Atlantic. 

When in his Scotland port and it was time to sail, Bamse would go from Pub to Pub gathering his shipmates alerting them to return to duty. Bamse even had his own bus pass. He was also credited for saving the lives of some of his shipmates. 

When Bamse died he was buried in Scotland with full military honors. His funeral was attended by over 700 people. 



There is a statue of Bamse in Montrose, Scotland where he is buried. His statue in Scotland faces Norway and the statue in Norway faces Scotland. The book, Sea Dog Bamse, is a great read. 
 

People have lived in the Honningsvåg area for thousands of years. The Old Norse name was 'Hornungsvágr': 'Hornungr' referring to the tall and hornlike peak near the town, and 'vágr', which means bay.

Early settlers were likely Sámi people (the indigenous people of northern Norway), reliant on fishing, hunting, and reindeer herding. By the Middle Ages, Honningsvåg had developed as a fishing village, thanks to the rich waters of the Barents Sea.

Fishing was the backbone of the local economy for centuries and by 1936, Honningsvåg was an established trading post with municipal status. But its peace and tranquility was shattered by World War II. German forces occupied the town and then destroyed it as they retreated in 1944 – a strategic move designed to disrupt Allied shipping routes. Somehow, the town’s church survived, and local people took shelter here.

After the war, Honningsvåg was rebuilt and gradually modernized. As more and more travelers were drawn to the remote allure of the North Cape (Nordkapp), Honningsvåg developed as a comfortable base for visitors from far and wide.

Today, Honningsvåg is a small, vibrant town. The harbour is still a focal point, and fishing, as well as tourism, remains a big part of life here on the Norwegian coast.

The Sámi bring reindeer to Magerøya for the warmer months and you’re likely to see the creatures roaming wild here in spring, summer, and autumn.

 

                    This is where the reindeer swim across

 The white speck is a albino reindeer. better pictures later from the big camera. 

“The reindeer walk from their remote corners of the island, gathering in larger and larger herds.” If you’re lucky, you might even spot them swimming across the Magerøya strait to spend winter on the mainland. This may be worth another trip.

As we sailed through the Magerøya strait we did see several reindeer. I was surprised to see several albino reindeer. I learned these albino reindeer are deaf. I will admit the all white reindeer are easy to spot.  

We had our morning pre breakfast coffee and the after breakfast we started our journey into Honningsvåg. 

First we visited Bamse and then to the main street to find the eXtra (grocery store). We wanted to get some snacks and other items before our stay in Longyearbyen. While Norway is expensive, items in Longyearbyen are even more expensive. 

Extra was closed, so we continued on to the church arriving just a services were starting. As I wrote the church was the only building standing in WWII after the Germans retreated. One interesting feature of the church is the large chimney. This was there to accommodate the ovens for baking of bread after the Germans retreated. 

                                 Presents for The Boys 

                                          The Pub

 

We went to the water front to check on the Sjøgata Pub, much to my delight it was open. We stopped in and the owner said you look familiar. I told him we had visited in January and had to return. We enjoyed a drink and conversation. This place is a must stop. Sjøgata Pub first opened in 2018 in the basement of Perleporten Kulturhus. Since that time, the pub has been a beating heart in the nightlife and as a meeting spot for both residents and tourists in Honningsvåg.

We were there long enough for eXtra to open and returned top gather supplies. Then we walked back along the water front to our ship. I admit I did get a sweater on the way back to the ship. 



 

At lunch there was reindeer soup making a perfect lunch. 



The Sami people have a strong relationship to their Shamans and their drums. The drumheads are decorated with various symbols relating to the Sun, the moon and their daily life. We attended a workshop where we drew our own drum heads. This was fun and educational. 

 

 

We next went to a presentation on the Birds of Norway. This was an excellent review of the sea/coastal birds of Norway. 

For dinner this evening we both had reindeer and it was very tender and excellent. 

I am calling it a day as there are no activities for the rest of the evening. Tomorrow is a sea day.   

Tromsø A Favorite of Mine:

 Tromsø A Favorite of Mine:

                           Amundsen Statute on of many

 

For me, Tromsø is steeped in Arctic Exploration history and that just may be why I enjoy Tromsø. It was from Tromsø many of the Arctic Expeditions were outfitted by a Chandler (A dealer of specialized provisions, supplies, or equipment, such as a ship's chandler who supplies boats and ships.) before setting out to the unknown. Many an expedition made Tromsø their first stop upon returning, oft times years later. I see the mighty Ice Ship Fram docked and sailing away and returning to Tromsø.

Humans first set foot on Tromsøya island’s shores some 10,000 years ago. The area was originally inhabited by the indigenous Sámi people, who lived off fishing, reindeer herding, and hunting.

Norse settlers arrived around the 12th century, and the town began to grow as a trading post, although it remained a frontier town until the 18th century when Bergen lost its monopoly on the trade in cod. Tromsø jumped on the opportunity, rising to become a major Arctic trading centre whose liveliness so surprised visitors they dubbed it the ‘Paris of the North’.

In the 19th century, Tromsø gained prominence and prosperity thanks to its strategic location for Arctic whaling. The town also became a centre for scientific exploration, hosting renowned Arctic expeditions led by figures like Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen, who often chose Tromsø’s hardy and nature-wise residents to join them on their landmark expeditions to the North Pole and Antarctica.

By the 1900s, the city had become a cultural and educational hub, thanks to institutions such as the University of Tromsø, founded in 1968.

Today, Tromsø is a hive of Arctic research and adventure tourism. It’s also experiencing a revival of Sámi culture, with joik (throat singing), duodji (Sámi handicrafts) and language classes and support from the Centre for Sámi Studies at The Arctic University of Norway.

Thanks to its location north of the Arctic Circle, you can witness the magic of the Aurora in winter and the 24-hour Midnight Sun in summer.

 

 In front of the Sami Shop one can find these four stumbling blocks. One can find these all over Europe. These brass stones represent a location where during WWII a person was arrested and sent to a concentration camp. I make sure visit them when we are here. 

The city holds titles for the world’s northernmost university and botanical garden, and offers an eclectic mix of festivals, such as Tromsø International Film Festival, The Northern Lights Festival and Bukta rock music festival. The city’s dining scene is impressive too, awash with fresh, locally sourced seafood.

We were off the ship a few minutes past 0800 and went directly to the Visitor Information Center. From previous visits we knew we can get bus tickets and information. Our plan was to get a day bus pass and visit the botanical gardens. It is about 3 miles out of town near the university. 

We passed the church and the local pub on our walk to Polaria.

                           Used to be the Northernmost.

 

 Alas, the Info Center did not open till 1000 and several of the bus routes had been diverted due to the music festival. 

Change of plans, we decided to walk to Polaria an aquarium and Arctic wildlife info center. It is funded by several organizations to bring awareness of the Arctic Eco Zone. 

As we arrived 30+ minutes early we took a seat out front of the facility to await their opening. 

While awaiting, a gentleman on a bicycle came around the corner being led by a Norwegian Elk Hound. He stopped and his most friendly dog ran over to me begging for attention. We chatted for about 25 minutes about dogs, Tromsø, the state of the world and more all while his pup demanded attention. Soon the facility opened. 

We don’t know why we have never visited here before during our previous trips to  Tromsø. This is a well done facility and is continuing to expand. 

I am glad we arrived early before the crowds. 

 

Statue to Helmer Hanssen one of the best dog drivers of Arctic Exploration. 

                                            Polaria 

                   Take you spikes off, winter time for sure. 

 

At 1030 they had a Bearded Seal feeding exhibition. They have three captive seals. Two of the seals were harvested as young female pups in Svalbard and the male came from Russia. 

After their feeding, we chatted with the staff and learn much more. I learned that any captive animal by law can not be released back into the wild. These seals receive weekly check ups and their diet is closely monitored. They are trained to some tricks and this is good to keep them active and receive mental stimulation.

 

There are 3 very well done short movies covering the subjects of behind the scenes, Svalbard wildlife and the Northern Lights. 

Then there are several small aquariums and other interactive displays. As I said all is very well done and well worth the visit as we spent 2.5 hours there. 

With changed plans and it being past 1200 we decided to return to city center and get a hot dog. 

 

Sadly, the hot dog bar was closed. We later learned the reason being today was the last day of Bukta  the rock music festival. For the three days of the festival the hotdog bar is closed. 

As we were not ready to return to the ship on such a beautiful day, we decided to get lunch in the city. A 7-11 hot dog or pizza did not sound appealing. 



There is a chain of pizza shops we have seen all over Norway called Peppe’s Pizza. We decided to give them a try. We got a small pepperoni and it was not bad at all. I am afraid I will be too full to have much a dinner tonight. 

We meandered the streets back to the waterfront where we boarded the ship. 

 

                                  The Arctic Chapel 

 

Should one be planning a trip to Tromsø, I will highly recommend the Troll Museum and the Arctic Exploration Museum.

Earlier today when we returned to our room we found a “Polarsirkel Sertifikat” commemorating our crossing of the Arctic Circle. 

 

We will make a stop tonight to take on fuel, as there is a fuel shortage in Longyearbyen. We are now just outside of Tromsø taking on supplies for Longyearbyen.

 

 These were unscheduled and added to our itinerary. 

Soon it will be off to dinner and I am looking forward to this evenings presentation on Sami Culture. 

Tomorrow we get to visit Bamse the Sea Dog. 

A Day in Reine: (Lofoten Archipelago)

 A Day in Reine: (Lofoten Archipelago)

 

WOW the SLEEP TROLL MONSTER really grabbed me last night. I layed down for what I thought was a bit before the Arctic Circle Crossing, alas I awoke at 2300.

                          These lawn mowers are. KEWL!!

Norway consumes the most frozen pizza per person globally,
 
Up and at um at 0530 and down for pre breakfast coffee after capturing the sunrise. 

I am hoping today will be a photo filled day as Lofoten is quite photogenic with it’s classic red fishing houses and dramatic mountains.

  
Human activity on the Lofoten archipelago can be traced back around 5,500 years, but the picture really comes into focus with the arrival of the Vikings. These hardy settlers were the first to discover that the Arctic winds – neither too humid, nor too dry – would preserve fish hung on hjell, or wooden racks. This lutefisk – or dried cod – was much sought-after and to meet demand, fishermen flocked to Norway from afar.

 
Reine, situated on the island of Moskenesøya, became a trading post in 1743 with its own fleet of boats, fish processing facilities and a growing collection of rorbuer – traditional fishermen’s huts on stilts – along the shore.    
Sadly, in 1941, much of Reine’s historical architecture was destroyed by German bombing as retribution for a British raid on the Lofoten Islands, and many buildings had to be rebuilt. Further bad luck ensued two decades later when the demand for ‘white gold’ – cod – started to wane.
A side note on the cod harvest. Norwegian boys were used to cut the heads off of the cod and were paid well for such work. It was a great way for them to earn monies. 

Reine was at risk of sinking into obscurity, but its fate took an upturn in the late 1970s when Allers, the country’s largest weekly magazine, deemed Reine to be the most beautiful village in Norway, ushering in a period of renewed interest from tourists. 

 
Soon after Allers' plaudit, the small fishing village began to appear on the covers of magazines and guidebooks, due in part to its stunningly photogenic aspect. Fast forward to today and the town has mostly swapped fishing for tourism, with rorbu (old fishermen’s huts) converted into boutique hotel rooms and high-end restaurants.

 
Happily, though, popularity hasn’t turned the heads of locals, and the whiff of drying fish can still be discerned on the sea breeze, just as it has done for centuries. Lucky we are that the drying racks will be empty so the smell not as noticeable. 

We were off the ship and trekking towards town at a bit before 0900. 

We walked by a camping area which I would describe as a dry camping gravel parking lot. To park overnight (24 Hours) is 250NOK or about $25.00. A few folks had their chairs out and enjoying the sun. 

 
Speaking of weather, it has been AMAZING. Every day thus far has been sunny and warm. Many of the local folks we have talked to said it had been raining day and night for three weeks prior to our arrival. 

We walked past many fish drying racks and into town passing the Little Library. 

Reine still has some fishing but is supported by tourist trade. This is evident by the number of lodging facilities and cafes. All seemed nice and quaint and I can see how someone might want to make Reine a holiday stay. 

 
We continued past the waterfront Circle K and to the harbor area. It is nice to see the boats and red houses with the beautiful mountains in the background. 

 
Next we went to the Culture Center past the Kirka (church) where some one was playing the organ. Sadly the doors were locked.  

The Culture Center was very nice with a Gallery, National Park info center and a gift shop. I did find a buff at a very reasonable price. 

  

Back to the Circle K where Lynn got an ice cream and I had a Brain Freezer (Frozen Coke). 

Oh look, the fishing store is open. I found a fishing lure and Lynn found a nice traditional wool sweater at an amazing price. So she got an early birthday present. 



The scenic fishing town of Reine is compact and easily covered in few hours. Yes, a place one should visit    . I should mention that on the way back we did observe a couple of Arctic Terns, I hope we start seeing more bird life. 

 
Back onboard, we spent some time getting our writing caught up and then off to lunch. We will be sailing away at 1500. 

Note the OQ code, it can be scanned to learn about this individual crab.

                                         It never ends

 

There was a very nice lecture on basic photography and later on deck had an enjoyable conversation with the ships photographer. 

 
We did receive some sad news as we will not be visiting the Trollfjord as we have had a route change. 

 
Calling it a day as we will be in Tromso tomorrow.