STARTING OUR CANAL JOURNEY - 100326: AND AWAY WE GO -
There is great anticipation as well as a bit of nervousness as we chart a new path into the unknown. We have studied the maps, read the maps, read the books, watched many Youtube videos, and checked out many websites. Yet the anticipation seems great. I probably just need to relax. We were up and enjoyed another great breakfast here at The Grange Manor. Very filling as I had the porridge and beans on toast.
After breakfast we packed our bags and called for a taxi to take us to the Falkirk Base. Amazingly we had the same cab driver as yesterday, a very nice gent.
We knew we were early to check in for our boat but were able to complete our paperwork, store our bags and went off to have lunch as we were told it would be a bit. Soon the phone rang and we were able to start our briefing. No lunch was had.
The first part of this journey will take us on the Union Canal from Falkirk to Edinburgh.
This journey takes you up the famous Falkirk Wheel, and along the Union Canal to Edinburgh Quay, traveling 32 miles in around 12 hours.
The route passes through the Falkirk Wheel, through two locks, two tunnels and five major aqueducts. And takes you through the lowland villages of Linlithgow, Broxburn and Ratho.
Union Canal history-
The Union Canal opened in 1842 and was built to bring coal and other minerals to Edinburgh. It is linked to the Forth & Clyde Canal at Falkirk by the Falkirk Wheel, the world’s first rotating boat lift.
Both canals were closed in the 1960’s until their Lottery-funded restoration was completed in 2001. The Falkirk Wheel opened a year later.
Replacing a flight of 11 locks, the lift is like a giant ferris-wheel, moving boats between the two canals in two massive gondolas, raising or lowering them 35 metres.
The Union Canal is a terrace canal, meaning it follows the contour of the landscape.
A few of the highlights we will be experiencing on our way to and returning from Edinburgh.
Amazing views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the Falkirk Wheel.
Rough Castle Tunnel with its psychedelic lighting.
The Falkirk Tunnel with dripping water, stalactites and rock hewn sections.
The Avon Aqueduct, the longest and tallest in Scotland, carrying the Union Canal 26 metres above the Avon valley.
Seeing many types of birds, including herons, swans, ducks, moorhens and gulls.
The historic town of Linlithgow, with Linlithgow Palace, where Mary Queen of Scots was born and St Michael’s Church with its unique Crown of Thorns spire.
The Four Marys pub in Linlithgow, named after the four ladies in waiting to Mary Queen of Scots. There is also the Old Post Office Pub, might mail a post card from there.
The canal side Bridge Inn at Ratho, serving food made with fresh Scottish produce from local suppliers.
The Falkirk Wheel -
The world’s only rotating boat lift, The Falkirk Wheel links the Forth & Clyde Canal to the Union Canal 35 metres above, allowing vessels to sail through the sky thanks to a unique fusion of art and engineering using the same power it would take to boil eight kettles of water.
Built on a contaminated site of a former tar works, The Falkirk Wheel opened in 2002 and replaced a flight of 11 locks that once stepped the Union Canal down to the level of the Forth & Clyde, more than 100 feet below. Travelers once had a day’s heavy work opening and closing 44 lock gates to complete the journey between the two canals, The Falkirk Wheel allows vessels to transit between the two waterways in just a few minutes.
Now one of Scotland’s busiest tourist attractions, The Falkirk Wheel attracts around 500,000 visitors each year. The Wheel has transformed Falkirk into a key tourism destination, with visitors traveling from all over the world to marvel at the working sculpture which combines modern engineering and technology with ancient principles set out by Archimedes more than 2000 years ago. EUREKA!!!!
When one of the structure’s gondolas is lowered, the opposite one rises, keeping the boat lift in perfect balance as it carries canal barges 35 metres into the air in a matter of minutes. Incredibly, the structure uses just 1.5kWh for each rotation.
BOAT BRIEFING:
After signing in and paying for a Rover Pass (for use of the Scottish Canals) and a Diesel Fuel deposit. We made our way to our boat The Lyra, she is a fine sturdy craft. They had Garden Wagons to haul your luggage and supplies to the mooring, rather handy. Just like we use to load our camper.
We were greeted by Alan who provided an excellent briefing.
We started at the bow and went to the stern. We covered the bow lines and the cleats for tying up to the dock and in the locks. Then how to open the bow door and how to secure it. We were shown the mooring pins and mallet for mooring canal side if needed. Propane tank locker and how to switch tanks if needed. Then the water fill, we were advised to top up the water tank daily so as not to run out.
Next inside there is a panel where there is a water gauge that is not to be trusted, a water pump switch, power outlets and light switch. Further on is our bedroom, this is equipped with nice warm duvets. Then is the head, WC, Loo, Shower, bathroom. Toilet is a macerating toilet and is a simple button push to flush. The shower has a drain pump that needs to be turned on when using the shower.
There are two nice large closets for clothes storage.
Then there is the dining area. There we find a nice long table with comfy bench seats. This can be converted into another bed.
The galley is next and it is very well appointed, with a 4 burner stove and oven. Sink for washing up and food prep, a dish drainer, and tea towels. There is a drink ware rack with glasses mugs and wine glasses. Crockery, plates, silverware, pots and pans or stored opposite in the cabinets. There is a microwave, but the engine has to be running and the power inverter engaged for it to be operated.
Near the rear exit door there is a master control area where you will find a master fuse panel, light switch, and the ignition key. Here is where you start the engine.
Next covered were the engine hatch area. When the hatch covers are removed you find the engine. This is where a daily check will be preformed. In the evening the tiller gets greased. In he morning we will be checking the weed hatch to clear the prop of weeds. Then we will check the coolant level by observation or using ones finger as a dip stick. Last check is to pump out the bilge.
We were given a bit of time to make ready before getting under way. Alan would be accompanying us through the first lock after which he would be stepping off.
Into the first lock we went. The Scottish Canal folks operate the locks and are very helpful in getting you sorted out. This first lock takes us from the Forth and Clyde Canal into the Falkirk Wheel Basin. Here we waited for an other narrow boat to enter the Wheel’s Gondola, then was our turn to enter. I think must have been doing a good job as the folks on the other boat said “you must have done this before” . They are from Alberta so almost neighbors.
On the Falkirk Wheel:
Here you are assisted again by Scottish Canal folks, who instruct you where to tie up at and when to proceed. Soon the wheel is rotating our gondola up the 35 meters. We were instructed to leave the Gondola first.
We motored along and very soon came to our first tunnel. This is the Roughcastle Tunnel which is lit with color changing lights. The length of this tunnel is 150 meters. Traffic in the Tunnels is one way and there are lights controlling the traffic. Green is the good to enter and transit. When steering your boat through a tunnel you use your distance between the boat and the side of the tunnel as a guide.
The Canadians were behind us and as they entered the Roughcastle Tunnel, the let out with the Loon Call that Doug and Bob McKinsey used in the comedy show The Great White North, I got a big kick out of this. I told the well done you hosers. IYKYK :)
After this tunnel the canal makes a hard right and you line up for two locks. These are the Falkirk Top Locks 1&2. These are deep locks and are one boat at a time. We made our way in fixing a bow line and stern line to poles on the sides as the water rose taking us to the next portion of the Union Canal.
The canals pass under many bridges and they are numbered to help one know your location. One bridge we passed under is bridge #60. Locals call it the "Laughing Crying Bridge". One side features a carved smiley face (marking the easy, flat ground canal workers enjoyed to the east), while the other features a crying face (facing the grueling rock and locks they had to conquer to the west).
Then we come to the LONGEST TUNNEL IN SCOTLAND at 630 meters long. The tunnel was constructed between 1818 and 1822. It was excavated entirely by hand by Irish migrant laborers, known as "navvies," who used nothing but pickaxes, shovels, and early black gunpowder.
Chillingly, two of the laborers who worked on the excavation were William Burke and William Hare. A few years later, the pair would become Scotland's most notorious serial killers, murdering 16 people in Edinburgh to sell the corpses to medical students for anatomical dissection.
The Atmosphere: It feels less like a traditional tunnel and more like a subterranean cave. The walls are a rough mixture of exposed natural rock face and historic brick supports.
Natural Formations: Over the last 200 years, the constant dripping of water has caused genuine stalactites and calcified columns to form along the interior walls.
One needs to be prepare and have your boat headlamp on. Turned on, sound the klaxon when entering and have your waterproofs on as it is rather wet.
We motored along seeing swans, mallards, and coots. Some area of farm land with horses, no coos yet, and beautiful hard wood forests. Along the bank are cat tails and rose bushed full of rose hips. This is a rather windy canal.
Steering the boat is rather simple push the till the way you don’t want to go. That said if you take the time to get a camera out you will be slightly off course and need to correct. The same can happen if you are looking at a feature on the side of the canal. Need to be constantly aware of your position in the canal.
Soon we arrived at our planed mooring for the night. We are near bridge 55 and there is a Super Tesco (Grocery Store) right next to the canal. I did help another hire boat moor. This was a couple with their kids from Maine.
For some unknown reason our cell phones were not making local calls. A working phone is necessary to schedule ones transit through the Wheel and locks and lift bridges. Three hours later we had the issue resolved, FYI we use Verizon and have the international plan.
For our evening meal we had raided our freeze dried food stash of a few meals. The main entree tonight was lasagna. After no lunch and the stress of the phone it was nice and easy as well as tasty. We unpacked our clothes and stowed the food items we had brought with us.
Tomorrow morning we will make a Tesco run to secure ships stores from the chandler Tesco. :)
First days impressions - The Canals are beautiful, Peaceful and puttering along at 3-4 MPH id enjoyable. Feel we did rather well for novices on our way to become old salts.
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