OFF TO SEE WHAT WE CAN SEE: 4/29

 OFF TO SEE WHAT WE CAN SEE: 

                                        Tram from Bus 

Our day started with breakfast at our hotel. A nice continental plus breakfast was had. The breads were really fresh and the Pastel de Nata was tasty. 

We plan on using the Yellow Bus Hop On Hop Off bus for a good bit of our sight seeing. Lynn is having a bit of a rough go and this plan should work well. With our Yellow Bus pass we will have access to local trams and a river cruise along with two bus routes and a sight seeing tram route. 

While our Yellow Bus tickets are good for 72 hours from activation one must go to a Yellow Bus stop to activate. Our closest stop is about 1.2 miles away. 

Tram 12E stops right outside our hotel and would cost us €8 where as an Uber is €6. An Uber was called for and arrived in a minute. The vehicle was a Chinese all electric vehicle, very roomy and quiet. 

One should know Lisbon was built on Seven Hills and yes, streets basically go up or down. Many are rather steep and in some cases there are stairs. To me, Lisbon is very reminiscent of Barcelona. The Uber was very welcome. 

We arrived at the marked Yellow Bus Stop location and discovered the stop had been moved. Just a short one minute walk away. 

Placa de Figueira is the old stop, where the stop is now located is Rossio, and there were several kiosks in the square. April 25 is Portugal’s Independence Day and it appears the festivities were grand.  

At this stop we activated our tickets and soon boarded the upper deck of the Yellow Bus. We were glad to be told the the Yellow Boat River Tour would not be running tomorrow. 

Thus we made a quick change of plans. Now we would stop at the MAAT where we could catch the Yellow Boat and take it to the Parca de Comercio. Here we would disembark and return for the 1400 sailing back to MAAT. 



It has been several years since we have used a hop on hop off bus to see a city. I must say these are a great way to get an over view. The route we took today was blue route Belem.  This route takes from the Historic Center to monuments of Belem. 

While riding this bus and listening to narrative is enjoyable, it is not great for serious photography. 


We enjoyed the narrative as we passed many a tile decorated building. The green spaces and monuments were very impressive. In Belem we drove past the Pasteis de Belem, the home of the    pasties de nata. Originating from the Belém district, these are flaky pastries with creamy custard filling. Yes there was a rather long line a couple blocks long at this location. We speculated this was due to a couple large cruise ships in port. 

 

At the MAAT stop we got off and caught the Yellow Water Boat and journeyed up the Rio Tejo to  the Parca de Comercio. The boat crew would be taking a lunch break and we did the same. On the east side of the Parca de Comercio we found the craft beer museum and had a great Bifana, a roast pork  sandwich. This was very good and they fries served with it were seasoned perfectly. 

We then walked back to the Yellow Boat dock and sailed down river past the Torre de Belem and the Padrao dos Descobriamentos. This is Lisbon's Monument to the Discoveries commemorates the five hundredth anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator, who discovered the Azores, Madeira, and Cape Verde.

We disembarked the Yellow Boat and waited just a few minutes for the Yellow Bus to continue blue route Belem. 

We ended our bus journey at the same stop where we started and started to walk to the tram stop to get the 12 E tram back to our hotel. What should we find but the Confeitaria Nacional. 

Confeitaria Nacional is Lisbon's oldest pastry shop, established in 1829 by Balthazar Roiz Castanheiro in the heart of the city at Praça da Figueira. Over nearly two centuries, Confeitaria Nacional has withstood fires, earthquakes, and political changes, maintaining its elegance and commitment to quality. In 1873, it was honored with the status of supplier to the Portuguese royal house, a distinction it still holds today. Their pasties de nata were excellent. 

Energized with the pasties de nata we made our way to the stop of Tram 12E. There was a short wait and soon we boarded for our ride back to our neighborhood. 

At our stop, we decided to get our local souvenir shopping done and were successful in a one stop session. 
As we have a kitchen I decided to cook our dinner tonight and will make spaghetti, supplies were procured at the local mini mart. 

Finishing up the blog and will see about cooking as we are still full from our lunch. 



Photo Dump - 

 

                                KEWL tiles everywhere 

This is the aqua-duct which supplies the water for the Fountains of Lisbon 

                        Port in Belem for the Yellow Boat

                          You Guessed it The Yellow Boat!

                           Monument to the Discoveries

        April 25th Bridge, kinda looks liGolden Gate Bridge

                                                Lunch

                           KEWL tiles making a sidewalk

                                         If we must

                                        The ride home

                                    Inside the 12E Tram
 




OFF TO LISBON AND LOCAL NEIGHBORHOOD

 OFF TO LISBON: 

We are flying to Lisbon and will be there a couple of days before we board the MS Fram, part of the HX Fleet. Our itinerary is to be sailing from Lisbon to Dover, with stops in Portugal, Spain, Wales and the Channel Islands. 

Our flights will take us from Denver to Washington DC then a non stop to Lisbon. We were able to get an upgrade on the long haul to Premium Economy. 

Long line at passport control. 

We have arranged a car from the airport to our hotel. I do have a little concern about the timing. The EU has just started an upgraded Entry/Exit System (EES). My research indicates the lines for people to get registered are rather long 1-5 hours. Our ride indicates they will only wait 45 minutes for us. If we miss them Uber will be the way we go.  Will update you on our experience. 

Our lodging is the Hotel Dalma Old Town. Located in Alfama, the most typical and historic neighborhood of Lisbon. This property offers themed apartments that refer to important characters in the Portuguese history. Such as Marquês de Pombal, Fernando Pessoa, Amália da Piedade Rodrigues and Vasca da Gama among other famous historical individuals.
The Hotel is built in a 18th century building, where each floor takes you back to different times in the Portuguese history. Original Pombaline tiles are used inside the apartments . We will have breakfast with our accommodations, we like this as it makes for easy mornings. 

Lisbon is known for it’s trams and trams12 and 28 have a stop right outside. 

Lynn’s hip is in need of replacement and I am on the mend from my replacement, so we will be using the Yellow Bus and trams to get around the city. Our three day pass also includes a boat tour on the Tagus River (known in Portuguese as Rio Tejo). Also included are the city trams. If all else fails there is Uber. 

The cruise port looks to be about a 20-30 min walk from our lodging and it will be down hill. 

For this long two week trip we are traveling light with only carry on. The less luggage handling the better for us at this time. 



DEN was busy. The west side arrival and pick up vehicle lanes are all torn up. Just the East side is open making things crowded. 

The Clear line was really busy with over 100 folks in the line, the other lanes were also busy but they were moving. 

In the Club Room we found it not as busy. 

Our Flights were our flights. I was able to upgrade us to Premium Economy for the over the pond leg and also able to get our seats together on the two side by side. 

The EU has implemented a new easier entry system where biometrics are used when one enters. I had read many a horror story about the lines at passport control. 

The rumors were true for us here in Lisbon. Massive lines with probably a 2-3 hour wait. We got lucky as the line monitors noticed Lynn limping with her cane. ( she get her other hip replaced in June) We were fast tracked to a special handicap lane. This made our total time to clear about 30 minutes. 

I was worried that our ride service would leave without us due to the lengthy passport control times. This was not the case, and we had a short wait for our ride and were soon off to our hotel. 

Arriving a bit early for our room to be ready, we waited in the hotel cafe with a coca cola. We had a nice chat with some folks from Belgium as well as our server. 

Soon the room was ready and we are got settled in by unpacking etc etc. 

Now to get oriented and do a bit of exploration of our hotel area. 

 

 

 

Very near our hotel on can find the OLDEST TRAFFIC SIGNAL IN THE WORLD!

 

 

On Salvador street, right at the foot of Portas do Sol in Alfama, there is an inscription on a wall that often goes unnoticed to most people passing by, but it’s of great historical importance. The marble plaque is the oldest, still standing traffic signal from Lisbon and the world.

In 1668, Lisbon was one of the most important kingdoms on the planet — Portugal. Attracted to the riches and wonders of the goods arriving from all over the Portuguese empire, the city was a magnet to foreign nobles and merchants alike, who had to share the narrow, still medieval streets with the inhabitants of the city. In 1668, Lisbon was still a century way from the great earthquake of 1755, followed by a firestorm and tsunami, that wiped out a large part of the city.

Salvador street is a still a small pedestrian passageway that connects Escolas Gerais street to São Tomé street, but in the 17th century, when honor was often upheld with blood, traffic disputes could become a serious issue in such a narrow passageway such as Salvador Street.

In the 17th century Salvador street was part of the route that connected Lisbon’s castle to the riverside area of the city and was one of the busiest streets in the city. Additionally, it was used by those who had chores at the royal court.

Now, imagine two litters or coaches coming from different directions — No one felt obliged to give way. For example, a count considered himself superior to a baron, a merchant considered himself superior as he was richer than the other merchant, etc. As a consequence of this, among the coachmen and servants who carried the lords, heated discussions that often ended in a generalized beating spree, were a common affair in this street. Talk about road rage. 

Becoming aware of the situation and in order to prevent further conflicts, the then King Pedro II issued the first traffic sign ever in Lisbon. There are records of older traffic signs in other countries, but according to the research I’ve done, this is the oldest still standing.


The marble plaque placed on a wall to the right of the people going up the street says:

A closeup of the traffic sign from 1686 in Salvador street
“ANNO DE 1686 / SUA MAJESTADE ORDENA / QUE OS COCHES, SEGES / E LITEIRAS QUE / VIEREM DA PORTARIA / DO SALVADOR RECUEM / PARA A MESMA PARTE”

Which translates approximately to:
“YEAR OF 1686 / HIS MAJESTY COMMANDS / THAT COACHES, SEGES, AND LITTERS THAT / ARE COMING FROM THE GATEWAY OF SALVADOR STREET / TO RETURN TO THE SAME WAY”

This is essentially the world’s oldest yield passage sign!
Traffic problems were so widespread that Pedro II placed a total of 24 traffic signs in Lisbon, 

During the second half of the 17th century, when coachmen were expressly prohibited from using daggers, sticks or any other weapons that could be used to solve a traffic dispute. Those who disobeyed the royal order would pay the exorbitant fine of 2,000 cruzados and ran the risk of being exiled to Pernambuco, Baía or Rio de Janeiro in Brazil.

Imagine being deported to the other side of the world for not respecting a yield sign!

Right across from this sign is a Doner Kabab shop that looks good, we may just return there

. 

From there we further explored our new neighbor hood. We found a “RUBBER TOMAHAWK” shop, our name for your typical souvenirs made in China. 

Lisbon is known for ceramic tiles as many of the buildings are decorated with these famous blue tiles. We also found a places called Lisbon’s Tiles, where hand crafted tiles are sold. We will probably return for an item or two.

 

We decided on an early evening meal and I had found a place near our hotel called O Prego. I wanted to try a traditional Prego. 

The origin of the name prego for a steak sandwich is debatable. One of the theories for the popular name is that the steak is hammered until it is tender and thin … and some beef cuts really need to be hammered. 

                                          Very tasty 

Post-war, a prego was a poor man’s meal and, like many popular dishes in Portugal, bread was a staple in Lisbon, too. The cheapest steak cuts were used, hence the hammering.
Grilled or fried, with garlic butter or mustard added to the sandwich, prego is still what comforts hungry Portuguese on a busy day or a penniless worker. 

We split our prego and it was more than enough for us. The steak was very tender cooked in a garlic oil and placed on a very fresh soft roll. It was very good to say the least. The fries or chips were also seasoned well and very fresh. 



The day or days of travel were catching up to us and we returned to our room. Laundry was done and we were ready for an early evening. 







OFF TO LISBON AND BEYOND

 

 

 

Almost time for Lynn and I to hit the road. Where are we going you ask? Well how about Portugal, Spain, the Bailiwick of Guernsey and Dover, Kent UK and London. That is the short version. 



We start by flying to Lisbon and spending a couple nights. We will have time to explore and find some of the more unique bits of Lisbon. Years back we visited Lisbon for a short port stop while on a cruise. We always thought it would be a great place to visit again. 



Since I have just finished up a couple surgeries and Lynn is awaiting another hip replacement I don’t think we will be as active as we normally are, so a lot of coffee shop stops might be in order for a pastel de nata. Pastel de nata is a wonderful custard tart.

 

 

The MS Fram - https://www.travelhx.com/en-us/ships/fram/

In Lisbon we will board the MS Fram, a ship which is a member of the HX Expedition fleet. We were on MS Fram last year sailing from Reykjavik to Longyearbyen. This time we have been upgraded to a mini suite. 

 

The MS Fram has a capacity of 250 passengers, no stage shows but great lectures which provide great learning experiences. We have obtained the HX status of Platinum and will have many rewards. I do think we might take advantage of comp laundry and a spa treatment. 

 



We have always found the food offerings on both Hurtigruten and HX to be a cut above the dining on big cruise ship, including their upscale/up-charge dining venues. 



The crew members have always been exceptional. In talking to many of them I have learned they are treated very well and simply love their jobs. Interestingly there is no tipping on HX, yet I always contribute to their crew fund. 

 



I must say our cruising style is definitely a preference for the smaller expedition ships. 



 

 

Here is our sailing itinerary: 

Day 1 - May 1st - Legendary Lisbon - Set out from this enchanting city. MS Fram awaits you in the harbor. After being welcomed aboard, settle into your cabin and begin your adventure at sea.  

 
Day 2 - May 2nd - Charming Porto (Leixoes) - Explore the UNESCO-listed historic center of Porto. Settle into life on board as we approach our first stop: Leixões, Portugal. From here, you can see the lighthouse of Leça, the Boa Nova Chapel, and the beautiful beach of Praia Azul.   

 
Day 3 - May 3rd - Galician Highlights - See Galicia's heritage in Ferrol. Ferrol is one of Spain’s best-preserved 18th century port cities. While you’re here, criss-cross Barrio de la Magdalena's grid of streets and explore the city’s maritime museums. 
 

El Camino Inglés, one of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes, starts in Ferrol. 

Day 4 - May 4th - At Sea - Relax at sea and prepare for the adventures ahead.

Day 5 - May 5th - Enjoy crystal-clear waters, sandy beaches, and natural beauty. Just 30 miles off the tip of Cornwall are the Isles of Scilly. This enchanting archipelago is home to some exquisite small islands with crystal clear waters, pristine beaches, and stunning natural beauty. We’ll anchor the ship here and head ashore aboard local boats.  

Days 6-7 - May 6th & 7th - Discover a hidden gem on the edge of Europe. Lying between France and mainland Britain, the Channel Islands are a captivating archipelago with intriguing history and a landscape of unspoiled beaches, coastal castles, and lush countryside. 

Day 8 - May 8th - Say farewell by the renowned  White Cliffs of Dover.

 

We will spend a couple nights in Dover, enjoying Poundland and Blakes of Dover. 

Then train to London for a couple more nights before heading home. 

This will be a one camera and lens trip, and I should be able to keep up with the blog. Our goal is to do this trip with only carry on. 

So buckle up and tag along. 
 Our hope is you are inspired to explore be that near or far. 

Final Thoughts on our India Trip

 I have decided to finish our India by Rail Expedition blog with one final entry to wrap it all up. This is for several reasons, time is getting limited before my hip replacement surgery, I am still recovering from a bought of Delhi Belly (stomach bug), and the task of editing so many many photos. I will let you all know when I get them posted. (They are all up at https://soggymoosephoto.smugmug.com/ )



 

 

 

This was a trip which a 1000 words can not explain. It was sensory and spiritual overload for me. The smells of the spices in the markets, the magnificent temples and forts. An amazing Astrological sun dial, accurate to within seconds. Our guide there gave me a quick astrological reading which was pretty darn accurate. 



The biggest experience I am taking away from this journey is the People of India. There is a kind warm spirit there that I can not put to words. 

Our time on the Palace on Wheels was an amazing experience. Opulence is an understatement and the service was superb. 



The National Geographic Expert on this trip was Jonathan Kingston. A traveler, amazing photographer more than willing share his time earned expertise. Our local guide was Rajeev Solomon Who did an amazing job of keeping us on track and doing so much behind the scenes to ensure our experiences. 

Sadly, I must report that this style of National Geographic Expedition might be going by the wayside after  2026. I am seeing this as I search for trips in 2027. It seems there will be no Nat Geo expert along to enhance the experience. I sincerely hope this is not the case. 



Jonathan wrote an amazing heartfelt wrap-up to this journey. My words can not come close to expressing his sentiments. I leave you with his inspiring words, 



 

 

 

Jonathan’s wrap up

Just ten days ago we left the place we are now returning. Closing the circle of our trip. Delhi the land of mogul emperors and twisted alleyways awash in the scent of spice markets and alive with the sound of touts selling their wares. Delhi the seat of power to the largest democracy in the world.

We wound our way next to the city bathed in Pink. Pink walls, pink light at sunset… Jaipur and the resplendent Leela Palace where we could contemplate what it would be like to have more than 20 minutes to swim in our private villa pools. We explored frenetic marketplaces and amber forts, and sun clocks so accurate you could set your Swiss watch to them. 

We boarded the cheerful palace on wheels - our opulent imperial litter - and headed west - further into the desert. Crossing into the land of the Maharajas and Maharanas and awoke the next morning at on one of their historic hunting grounds now remade as a Ranthambore national park where we learned the glory of panthera Tigris Tigris and how to gracefully navigate a 400 mm lens under the shoulders and over the heads of our companions on the jeep cantor that gave free chiropractic adjustments to those lucky enough to be seated in the rear. 

Deeper west we explored the soaring ramparts of Chittor Fort, watching Langur monkeys sitting as if in meditation atop ancient temple spires. A fort that was conquered thrice leading to the creation - through a holy man’s vision - of the city of Udaipur. And what a vision Udaipur was - her graceful white palaces floating over lake Pichola as if suspended on a silver cloud by the angles. 

Jaislamer led us deeper into the desert. To a crossroads of the Silk Road. The intricately carved sandstone walls of her dusty streets sometimes distracting us from the land mines left by mother cow - who is most definitely on the payroll of the shoe cleaners standing by with their brush kits and soap water bottles. 

And who can forget dining on the dunes just 35 miles from the Pakistan border?  With camels sitting like monks in a trance to the music that cascaded down the sand as we dined under the stars. 

The Blue city was next with its fort so large it required an elevator to reach the summit.  And homes so blue they blended into the cobalt desert sky. 

Then with a snap of India’s time-warping-fingers we departed our happy train. Our gold plated dinner plates and smiling cabin captains waving goodbye in Bharatpur to be transported into the world of Keoladeo Ghana National park. With birds so plentiful it was a veritable visual bird soup in the waters of her lake. 

Then in the blink of an eye we found ourselves back in the land of the Moguls in the city of the Taj Mahal. A testament to heartbreak and love. Of the riches of a dynasty invested forever into marble and semi precious stonework of the world’s most beautiful building. 

And so, like the tapestries in Koohinor jewelers museum, the tapestry of India unfolded before us, around us, enveloping every sense, to the maximum capacity it could absorb. 11 on the scale of 10. 

Can you believe all this happened in just ten days?  Every journey is a discovery, but I’ve found that every journey in India brings a deeper level of reflection. In the quiet moments, between the frenetic spaces. Perhaps because my senses are snapped out of their pleasing certainties and forced to refocus on new subject matter. 

Can you believe this all happened in just ten days?

For me travel is transformative. I think Aldous Huxley summed it up well when he wrote the following… "So the journey is over and I am back again.... richer by much experience and poorer by many exploded convictions, many perished certainties. For convictions and certainties are too often the concomitants of ignorance... I set out on my travels knowing, or thinking I knew, how men should live, how to be governed, how educated, what they should believe...
I had my views on every activity of life... Now, on my return, I find myself without any of these pleasing certainties.....

The better you understand the significance of any question, the the more difficult it becomes to answer it. Those who attach a high importance to their own opinions should stay at home. When one is traveling, convictions are mislaid as easily as spectacles, but unlike spectacles, they are not easily replaced."
 
Experiencing the open hearts of the many kind and gracious hosts we have met here in India - the lesson I will take with me from this journey is something that German philosopher Hermann Lons so eloquently put into words when he said - 

The most important piece of luggage is and remains a joyful heart.  

So beautifully captured in every smile and head bobble and namaste throughout our journey. 

So it’s with a joyful heart I return home carrying a little bit of the spirit of India, a little bit of her wisdom and a entire extra checked bag full of her treasures I had not anticipated acquiring

Namaste. God bless your journey wherever it takes you next. And remember always that the most important piece of luggage is and remains a joyful heart.

Jonathan Kingston February 2026. 

I can not match these words. 

Namaste to all.