HX GREENLAND ECLIPSE CRUISE RECAP:

 HX GREENLAND CRUISE ECLIPSE RECAP: 

                                    MS SPITSBERGEN 

DISCLAIMER  - EXPEDITION CRUISING IS NOT FOR EVERYONE

SORRY THIS BOUNCES A ROUND A GOOD BIT. 

This Journey found us sailing with HX Expeditions on the MS Spitsbergen. It is one of the smaller HX ships and we found it to be wonderful. 

With HX Expeditions you will receive a wind and waterproof shell jacket and a very nice thermal water bottle. I recommend getting the jacket a couple sizes larger so one can layer underneath. The water bottle is a commitment to cut down on one use plastic bottles. As we have the jacket from previous sailings we can either get another or receive an onboard credit.  

What an amazing journey we have had. Starting in Svalbard, a northern most city and sailing to Eastern Greenland, experiencing the wilds of the largest National Park in the world. Enthralled by the majestic fjords, Musk Ox and Ice Bears along with many birds. 

 

 

 

Then there was the total solar eclipse, where the Captain and expedition team placed the ship in a prime viewing location. All in all, an amazing experience, as Greenland is amazing, we did book a future trip to experience West Green land. 

We are now crossing the Denmark Strait, headed to Reykjavik where we will have a few days before heading home. 

YES I AM HOOKED ON EXPEDITION CRUISING!

Why Expedition Cruising? 
For me, there are many reasons and it is very difficult to name one as to the primary reason.  So, in no particular order as the thoughts pop into my mind. 

There is the love of the natural world of which I have always been fascinated. These wonders never cease to amaze me and the learning process never ends. 

There is the thrill of exploration. What is over that hill, what will we find, It is unknown till we get there and experience first hand. 

There is the history and stories of those who have come before. 

So probably the synergy of all the above is a driving factor for me to choose an Expedition Voyage. 

SHIP SIZE AND FEATURES: 

Most, if not all, expedition ships have a capacity of 500 or less. Currently we are on the HX MS Spitsbergen with 125 passengers. 

The smaller ship allows us to visit locations where larger ships can not. This makes for unique and special experiences. 

One does not feel like a number in any way shape or form. You also do not feel like you need to leave a trail bread crumbs to find you cabin. 

The ships are very well appointed and there is a comfortable luxury about the ship. ( My Opinion)

There is no dress code, no formal events, no stage shows (well there is usually a crew band or talent show performing one night). 

You will find your fellow passengers well educated and well traveled. All are very interested in the discovery experiences an Expedition Cruise offers. Wth HX, there is a diverse demographic, with people from around the globe. For me, this adds to the experience. Usually the number of US citizens is  low, however on this sailing there were a good number of US folks. 

As I said, there are no stage shows, as they are not necessary when you have the natural world as your entertainment stage. Yes, at times raw nature can dazzle you, as I dare say there is no stage show that can equal the Northern Lights. 

Your day will be filled with Wildlife Watches, to see what you may encounter while sailing along. Then there are Discovery Sessions where you will have hands on experiences on a myriad of topics, such as weather, navigation, birds, whales, etc etc etc. Then there are lectures covering so many topics to enhance your experience. 

The Expedition Team is usually about 12-15 people all with a particular expertise. They are all very eager to share their knowledge at any time of the day. There is usually an expedition photographer who chronicles your expedition and provides a photo log of the voyage. They also provide hands on photo workshops to help you improve your photography. I believe had I learned of these positions earlier in my life my life would have been very different. 

The Expedition Team is responsible for the landings we made. They are first on the landing site preparing for our arrival. Polar Bear spotters are sent out and a trail and landing area are marked off. 

Your are loaned Muck Boots for your time on board to be used for wet landings. A wet landing is basically where your feet will get wet as you exit the zodiac. 

Landing usually included a hikes of various levels and the Expedition Team is there to answer question and provide information about the landing area. 

The crew onboard is very very friendly and accommodating and most attentive to ones needs and desires. They are simply Excellent in so many ways. They are selected by referrals from current crew members. It needs to be said they are top notch. 

I find the food onboard to be a notch above standard cruise fare. Maybe because it is prepared in smaller quantities. HX makes an effort to use local sustainable sources for the meals on board. They do an amazing job and work so hard. 

The cabins are well appointed. The beds are very comfortable. There is ample storage and power outlets for charging your electronics. One feature I really love is the heated bathroom floors. There is always plenty of hot water for a nice shower. Bath products are provided and are really nice. 

Robes and slippers are available. I should mention the window shades are great for keeping out the midnight sun. 

Basic drinks, wine, beer, and select cocktails are included and there is a 24/7 coffee tea station. 

Reception is manned 24/7 and there is a ships shop. The shop offers fine expedition Helly Hansen clothing, binoculars, bags, gloves hats, sweaters and jackets and basic toiletry goods one may need. They also have some souvenir type items. 

This ship has a gym and two hot tubs, sadly we did not use either like I thought we would. OK NEXT TIME. Always busy with something going on. 

Having sailed with HX enough, we have reached the Platinum Explorer Level. One of the perks we have availed ourselves of is the laundry service. Lynn and I each get two bags of complementary laundry a week. This saves us from doing our own laundry in the room. 

There is a theme on many social media sites that tells readers not to use a travel agent. I know some will not understand this and these comments may only apply to HX or Hurtigruten. It seems communication is smoother with individuals over travel agents. I agree with this for personal reasons. My main reason is an expedition cruise is expensive and you have a great financial investment. With this I want control and not have to go through an intermediary should a question arise. When I have contacted HX or Hurtigruten with a question I have gotten a timely answer. Also I strongly feel the more one studies their trip the better ones experience.  

One other aspect of an Expedition Cruise is there is a plan A as published. This can change at a moments notice due to weather, sea conditions, wildlife etc etc. This is where the Ships Crew and Expedition Team shine, as they are adept at  quickly adapting the schedule and maybe the route to make a great experience happen. 

One thing I really like about HX is their Foundation. 

HX FOUNDATION:
The HX Foundation is the charitable arm of HX Expeditions, created to fund environmental conservation, wildlife protection, and community support in the regions HX Expeditions visit. Operating costs are fully covered by HX, ensuring 100% of donations go directly to project grants. 

Core Focus Areas
Protecting Wildlife: Saving endangered species and funding polar marine research (such as work with the California Ocean Alliance).
Fighting Plastic Waste: Removing marine litter and funding coastal cleanups through groups like Surfers Against Sewage.
Community Support: Investing in youth and educational programs, including initiatives with the Association of Greenlandic Children and the OSM-AD Foundation. [1, 2]

How It is Funded
Green Stay Program: Guests can skip daily cabin servicing, and HX donates money to the foundation for each night skipped.
Onboard Fundraising: Charity auctions, special cabin experiences, and direct donations from travelers.

Rapid Response Fund: Allows ship crews to distribute quick on-site micro-grants to local communities in need. 


I will again end with this DISCLAIMER  - EXPEDITION CRUISING IS NOT FOR EVERYONE but it sure works for me. 








Ittoqqortoormiit the edge of the World

 

 

 Morning Report : Current Position is 70° 20’ 23.3” N , 22° 15’ 14.4” W, Speed  4.561 kn, COG 34.2°, Wind 352 ° at 5.7 m/s. 



Today we will visit Ittoqqortoormiit.

Only around 500 to 700 people visit Ittoqqortoormiit each year. It’s one of the least-visited settlements on Earth, offering a truly rare chance to witness Arctic life, untouched landscapes, and cultural resilience at the edge of the world.

 


Welcome to the edge of the world. Perched on the fringes of Northeast Greenland, where the sea ice lingers for most of the year, and polar bears still outnumber tourists—lies a town few can pronounce—but many dream of: Ittoqqortoormiit.

 
The town of Ittoqqortoormiit sits at the entrance to iceberg-strewn Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord system on Earth, and is a key access point to Northeast Greenland National Park —the world’s largest national park. 

 
It has been said : “Ittoqqortoormiit feels like an ‘Arctic Brigadoon’—a place so remote and unchanged, it could vanish into myth the moment you leave.”

This remote East Greenlandic outpost is a place of profound isolation, rugged beauty, and cultural resilience. If you're the kind of traveller who prefers satellite phones over Wi-Fi and true adventure over lounging poolside, hearty expedition fare over room service, then read on. 

 
Ittoqqortoormiit: overview and history:

 
Ittoqqortoormiit recently marked 100 years of life on the edge of the world. Founded in 1925 by 80 Inuit families from Tasiilag and guided by Danish explorer Ejnar Mikkelsen, this small Arctic town is one of the most remote inhabited places on Earth. Officially, it was about better hunting: the Scoresby Sund region, with its iceberg-choked fjords and vast, silent horizons, promised rich marine life. But the deeper motive was political—Denmark sought to reinforce its territorial claim over East Greenland as Norway showed growing interest in the area.

The settlers weren’t forced, but the ‘choice’ came with pressure and persuasion, framed as a chance to preserve the traditional Inuit way of life in a land untouched by European sprawl. What they found was stark, raw beauty and brutal isolation. For the first decades, they survived by relying entirely on hunting and fishing skills passed down through generations.

 
Today, life has grown even harder. Winters are long and dark, supply ships rare, and hunting still essential. As sea ice diminishes, polar bears are spending more time ashore, wandering into town with increasing frequency. Locals have adapted bear patrols, armed lookouts, and even trained dogs posted near the perimeter—vigilant guardians against an apex predator displaced by a warming Arctic. For the people of Ittoqqortoormiit, resilience isn’t a choice. It’s a tradition.

What makes Ittoqqortoormiit unique:

 
Set in East Greenland, near the mouth of Scoresbysund, Ittoqqortoormiit offers a rare, unfiltered connection to both nature and tradition. This isn’t a town built for tourists—it’s a living community shaped by self-reliance and the seasons.

 
The surrounding wilderness is breathtaking: colossal icebergs, shifting sea ice, and Arctic wildlife like polar bears, musk oxen, and nesting seabirds. It’s one of the best places in Greenland for raw wildlife encounters.

 
What makes Ittoqqortoormiit truly unique, though, is its way of life. Inuit hunters still follow traditional subsistence practices, including regulated polar bear and narwhal hunting. These aren’t performances—they are part of a culture that endures where modern supply chains don’t reach.

 
For those seeking more than just scenery, Ittoqqortoormiit offers something rare: authenticity. A place where nature shapes daily life, and ancient knowledge still leads the way.

Life in Ittoqqortoormiit
Home to roughly 350 hardy souls, Ittoqqortoormiit is less a town and more a tight-knit Arctic enclave. Daily life is deeply tied to the rhythm of nature and the ancestral customs of the Inuit.

 
The community relies heavily on subsistence hunting and fishing for their livelihood—seals, musk ox, narwhales, and the occasional  polar bear still provide food, clothing, and fuel. These ancestral practices remain essential in a place where modern supply chains rarely reach. 

Colorful homes dot the landscape, their cheerful paint standing in stark contrast to the frozen wilderness that surrounds them. Sled dogs are still essential and ever-present, chained near homes, their howls carrying across the tundra, alerting the town to danger or simply announcing their presence. Dog sledding isn’t a winter novelty here—it’s a lifeline.

 
Despite its diminutive size, Ittoqqoortormiit supports a surprising array of services. There’s a church, a school, a kindergarten, a town hall, and even a modest museum, which I found well done and interesting. .Health and safety are covered by a hospital, a police station, and a fire station. A sports hall and football field offer recreation. There is also a heli pad to provide support for the community. 

 
Life here is hard, but not joyless; it’s vibrant and communal. Residents take pride in their independence but lean on one another when needed—a harmony forged by necessity and bound by tradition. It’s a rare kind of strength, the kind you don’t often see in more connected parts of the world.

Culture and traditions: 
The town is a treasure trove of Inuit tradition. Locals still craft tupilaks, spirit figurines carved from bone or tusk and heavily rely upon ancestral subsistence hunting that still shapes daily life. 

 

And no matter when you go, know this: only around 500 to 700 people visit Ittoqqortoormiit each year. It’s one of the least-visited settlements on Earth, offering a truly rare chance to witness Arctic life, untouched landscapes, and cultural resilience at the edge of the world.



Our narwhal group was last to be shuttled ashore. I had great hopes of sending some post cards from this remote location. 

 

                                     The Museum

                               Store,post office and more

                      They have it all, love stores like this 

                            Displays inside the Museum

                                        The Church

                              Musk Ox, rather good meat 

                 The last land of Greenland for this journey 
 



On this, our final landing, the zodiacs were loaded with twelve guests to get us all ashore quickly. The  conditions were very calm as we went ashore. The landing was still wet a bit rocky. 

We dropped our  lifejackets to be more comfortable as we visited Ittoqqortoormiit.

 Our first stop was the supermarket, planning to get a couple of postcards to send. Sadly there were no postcards to be had. We did check out the stores offerings. We learned they had received a couple of supply ships and the shelves were well stocked. I would describe the store as a grocery/ general hardware store. 

 

Next we went to a local museum situated in a one room house. The displays were well done and informative about the overall and personal history of several residents. 

I was surprised to find some of the roads to be paved with concrete. 

Our personal walking tour next stopped at the church. This church was beautiful with maritime influences. I noticed the kirkeskibe (church ship) hanging above the pews. A kirkeskibe is a model ship symbolizing the church as a vessel navigating life's stormy seas with Jesus at the helm, honor sailors lost at sea, and give thanks for safe returns.  

 
Next we went to a local residence for the traditional coffee and cake. Kaffemik in Greenland is the ultimate in social gatherings. “Come glad and eat cake” the message, but it is what the invitation does not say which makes kaffemik more of a social staple than just a fun get-together. It’s a way to meet friends and friends of friends and be ‘out on the town’. 

We were hosted by an elderly couple and were treated to coffee and a great raisin cake. The husband had killed a musk ox and we were offered a sample of roast musk ox. I found it to be mild like a fine lean beef. 

We then kept walking up hill near the heliport and past the community sports hall. We located a local craft shop where several different handcrafted items. We noticed some polished musk ox horn we liked, but the legal process to bring home is or can be involved.

 
Then we returned to the landing location for our final zodiac ride for this trip. 

We showered and gathered laundry to be sent out (complimentary laundry is a nice Platinum Explorer perk). 

1400 - Lecture on post processing your eclipse images. 

1600 - Q&A with Senior Staff. The captain is hilarious. 

 
1730 - Lecture on the history of navigation 

2015 - time for disembarkation talk
2030 - daily briefing

2045 - HX foundation Auction
The HX Foundation is the charitable arm of HX Expeditions, created to fund environmental conservation, wildlife protection, and community support in the regions HX Expeditions visit. Operating costs are fully covered by HX, ensuring 100% of donations go directly to project grants. 

Core Focus Areas
Protecting Wildlife: Saving endangered species and funding polar marine research (such as work with the California Ocean Alliance).

 
Fighting Plastic Waste: Removing marine litter and funding coastal cleanups through groups like Surfers Against Sewage.

Community Support: Investing in youth and educational programs, including initiatives with the Association of Greenlandic Children and the OSM-AD Foundation.

How It is Funded
Green Stay Program: Guests can skip daily cabin servicing, and HX donates money to the foundation for each night skipped.

 
Onboard Fundraising: Charity auctions, special cabin experiences, and direct donations from travelers.

 
Rapid Response Fund: Allows ship crews to distribute quick on-site micro-grants to local communities in need. 





 

FOG CHANGES THE DAY

 Morning Report : Current Position is 70° 31’ 58.4” N , 22° 30’ 5.0” W, Speed  3.9 kn, COG 174°, Wind 285° at 1.2 m/s. 

Sunny skies are greeting us again this morning. 

We are at Nokkeldal in Hurry Fjord. The plan is to make landings at 0900. 

In the afternoon we will be in Scoresby Sund at 1530. The plan seems open and my guess is cruising about.

I have mentioned Scoresby Sund a good bit so here is a bit more about this location. 

Where is Scoresbysund?

Scoresbysund (also known as Scoresby Sound or Kangertittivaq in greenlandic) is the longest fjord system on Earth located on the east coast of Greenland high above the Arctic circle. It stretches about 350 km (220 miles) inland from the Greenland Sea. Scoresby Sund is known for its stunning natural beauty, with towering cliffs, icebergs, and glaciers, making it a popular destination for tourists and researchers interested in studying the Arctic environment.

Scoresby Sund is situated between Jameson Land to the north and Knud Rasmussen Land to the south. To the west, just beyond Milne Island, you’ll find the Renland peninsula. The terrain encircling the fjord is predominantly mountainous, characterized by steep, ascending edges. 

The entrance measures 29 kilometres in width, extending from Kangikajik (Cape Brewster) at the terminus of the Savoia Peninsula to Uunarteq (Cape Tobin). The southern portion presents an impressive, sheer wall of basalt, soaring between 1000 to 2000 meters (approximately 3,280 to 6,560 feet) in height, while the northern side is comparably lower and possesses more rounded features.

Scoresby Sund is definitely worth visiting. Nowhere else on earth can you experience colossal icebergs floating through narrow fjords framed by some of the planet’s oldest and most majestic landscapes. The wilderness is truly untouched by humans and it offers the explorer a chance to connect with nature in a seldom explored place.

Why Visit: Natural beauty ( an understatement) with its breathtaking natural scenery, which includes towering cliffs, colossal icebergs, glaciers, and pristine Arctic wilderness.
Here you can be one of the few to discover the small settlement of  Ittoqqortoormitt heavily influenced by Inuit traditions . For nine months out of the year, the settlement is completely isolated from the rest of the world due to the sea ice that surrounds it, making it a true symbol of inaccessibility. This is an opportunity to connect with a way of life vastly different from our own and gain a deeper appreciation for the diversity of human culture.

Here one can witness icebergs reaching heights of up to 300 feet above sea level, displaying a range of shades from green to blue. The sheer magnitude and number of icebergs cannot be fully captured by media, and must be experienced in person to truly understand. 

There is no guarantee of encountering wildlife in Greenland, spotting it in its natural habitat is extra special. The region is home to various animals such as musk ox, Arctic hares, and occasionally polar bears. The surrounding seas also harbor  narwhales , which are often referred to as the ‘unicorns of the sea’.

Explore the world’s longest natural fjord and remote wilderness. Scoresby Sund offers a sense of remoteness and solitude which is very hard to explain.  The isolation and untouched landscapes are pure raw nature. 

Due to a very foggy morning and at 1200 still foggy we were unable to make a landing. Thus many of the days activities were moved up. This is an aspect of Expedition Cruising that is to be expected, the Expedition Team moves on to Plan B all they way to Z or more as needed.

1430 - What’s in the. Bag- we can learn what is in the big orange bags the Expedition Team takes ashore for the landings. The large bags and covered bucket/jug carry survival gear for 10 people. There is food and water, flashlights, TP and plastic bags, blankets, thermal pads, an emergency blanket suit and a shelter.  

                                                                   THE BAG

                                                                     WATER

                                  Biscuits for Food , so have a candy bar in your pocket

                                                        Blankets, one for two people

                                                           Thermal Pads

                                                                Headlamps

                                                             Warming Blanket

                                                                       A Shelter 

Lynn had a full lunch in Anue and I had some crackers and cheese. Then I got a HX burger takeaway and had a very private picnic on deck 8.  

1500 - paint our clay creations, Lynn painted hers and I left min plain. 

1630- Discovery Session -The Marine Food Web

1730 - Lecture - Whales and Dolphins of East Greenland

1800 - We were lucky to enjoy another Taste of Greenland Chef’s Table. The same excellent menu was presented, a wonderful meal.  

2030 - Briefing

2045 - Crew Band 

INTERUPTED BY WHALES

 

 

081526 - Leaving Scoresby Sund 

Morning Report : Current Position is 70° 23’ 40.9” N , 23° 2’ 59.3” W, Speed  8.156 kn, COG 91°, Wind 37° at 1.3 m/s.

Today we are sailing north out of Scoresby Sund to get to Raffles O!. Our planned arrival time is 1400 and we will be doing a nature landing there. 


Days Offerings:

0830 - Wildlife Watch

0915 - Lecture - Beyond Totality - Earth’s Extraordinary Light Shows - This was really interesting till the whales showed up. Will be rescheduled. This resumed at 1745 and was very interesting and enjoyable.  

1015 - Discovery Session - Rocks and Sand Under the Microscope - also interrupted by Whales

1115-1215 Workshop- Lost at Sea - more Whales

All morning sessions were interrupted by whale sightings.

1330 - Discovery Session - Feathers - More Whales 

                                                               a zodiac landing

                                                     briefing about the landing site

                                                        attempts at Iphone creativity

                                                        tracks we found on the beach

                                                              polar bear lookouts

        

                                                boot was station, must scrub your boots 

                                                         then sanitize your boots

Landing at Raffles O!, basically a beach walk. Very nice, sunny and warm. Lots of tracks in the sand and colorful rocks. The Expedition Team members tried to climb a scree slope but turned around as it was too difficult and slippery for them.  

2030 - Briefing

2045 - Liars Club - truth or fiction