Soggy Moose Travels : 12/15-16 DAY AT SEA AND FINAL DAY IN CIENFUEGOS

12/15

Cayo Largo:

The current plan for today is to anchor on the southwest end of Cayo Largo, the easternmost part of the Canarreos and is known for the white sandy beaches. The issue today is there is a missing channel buoy and this may effect our anchorage. We may have to anchor 6 miles out , so “if all goes well” is a recurring theme - but what expedition sailing is all about, and is making this trip unique, and I feel sorry for the staff in needing many different option, one need to and must be flexible as this is their first trip here and well things are different in Cuba).

We dropped anchor about 6 miles out from the island. A zodiac was sent in to collect and return with the officials. When they arrived our temperatures were checked and we were cleared to go ashore. The issues became using a small zodiac to transport folks 6 miles to shore and return and the conditions at the dock were not the best for safety issues, so the decision was made to cancel the shore activities. Initially we were told we could not go swimming off the ship. Yet we could go and did go when the officials left. It was refreshing to get into the water.

We got back on board and Mike gave a talk on coral reefs and their projected future. Lunch, then a nap on the sun deck was in order. The sails were set and we sailed slowly to the east past a shoreline dotted with resorts. My guess is the dollars from those resorts does not make it inland.

This evening we had our Captains Farewell reception and dinner. The hard working staff always had a cheerful can do attitude and the food has been over the top on this whole experience. I can honestly say we have yet to have a meal which was not excellent.

Tonight we sail to Cienfuegos.

12/16

Our last full day in Cuba:

We awoke as we are sailing towards Cienfuegos. The plan is to take on the Pilot at first light and be docked at 0800. I am sure we will be getting our temps taken again.

Today we should visit the Benny More Escuela de Arte for insight into Cuban Music and Art. Lunch is to be at the Casa Prado roof top. then we will be doing a walk about Cienfuegos.

The Doctor who was there to take our temperers returned to the ship to talk to us about the Cuban health care system. There are three tiers to the Cuban health care system, clinics, hospitals and specialists. Doctors are placed in local town as residents living above their clinic. When the Doctors live in the community they get to know the people and their medical history, thus able to better serve their patients. When a local doctor referred a patient to the hospital or specialist he is involved with the extended treatment and follows up with the patient in the hospital. As a result of the Special Period doctors often prescribe holistic remedies.

Our busses took us to the Benny More Escuela de Arte. Benny More was an musician/composer who lived in Cienfuegos who composed many songs and was best known for the mambo pieces. He lived from performance to performance and died of alcoholism in 1963.

Here students, 7-9th graders, presented their art, musical talent, and dance. These presentations were by beginner students and they were amazingly talented. The dance students were in a testing phase and we got to see some of their performances. It was interesting to learn the students were selected for various disciplines and instruments given their talent and physical characteristics. The instruments they use while in school are loaned to them while they are in school and as they advance the leave the instrument behind for another student. In this school they also take courses in the other studies such as math, science, etc.

We made our way to our lunch spot for another great meal. There was a choice of fish, chicken, or pork, with or without a Cuban Sauce. I talked to the head waiter and learned the sauce was a mix of tomato sauce, cumin, garlic, onion blended and reduced. I don’t know if I can recreate this great mixture.

After lunch we went to see a group of elementary students involved with a performing group called Abracadabra. This was a great high energy, audience participation performance of a fairy tale style story. These kids were full of energy. This is a program to give the kids social exposure and a way of them giving back to their community. To participate in this program they are up practicing 2 hours before their school day starts and their parents are highly involved in many aspects of the practice and performances. This was a moving experience, because every once in while, full grown men get to learn from a child.

After the performance we were we invited to interact with the children and I noticed Fabio chatting with one particular girl. I took a few pictures of this interaction and later learned the little girls name was Luna and she is the niece of his girlfriend. I later showed him the pics and loaded them onto a thumb drive for him to take back to her.

We then walked back to the main Plaza via a pedestrian street where we stopped in a pharmacy and a state store. The pharmacy was interesting as they had several natural remedies available. Remember the Special Period, as there was also a lack of man made pharmaceuticals the Cubans went to the hills and rediscovered their natural remedies and incorporated them into their health care system.

In the state stores we observed the various items people could buy such as clothing, garden tools, cooking implements and shoes. All the items in these stores are manufactured in Cuba and the prices are highly subsidized. A pair of shoes would cost about $0,80 US and an ax was being sold for about 150 Cuban Pesos or about $6 us dollars.

The street was alive with activity as we made our way to the Plaza. We spent some time walking about before we headed back to the Panorama II to pack as we leave tomorrow.

Our trip home was uneventful with the exception of delayed flights.

One thing I have learned as we have traveled is simply this, people are great and make the best of their situation and for this I have great admiration. I would like to return to Cuba in a few years just to see if there are any big changes. I do hope the spirit of the people is not changed.