Potala Palace

Potala Palace and more:

Roving has always been, and still is, my ruling passion, the joy of my heart, the very sunshine of my existence. In childhood, in boyhood, and in man’s estate I have been a rover; not a mere rambler among the woody glens and upon the hill-tops of my own native land, but an enthusiastic rover throughout the length and breadth of the wide, wide world.  R.M. Ballentine “Coral Island”

Last nights briefing was interesting to me as Peter talked about his fathers ascent of Everest. He read an excerpt from his fathers journal recounting being the first on top Everest. He then talked about his climb of Denali (McKinley) which was his last of the Seven Summits and how he took a Kata (prayer scarf) to leave in remembrance of the anniversary of his father’s Everest ascent. The picture he showed was at Camp 5 at 17,000 feet on Denali, I immediately recognized this location having camped there years ago. 

After breakfast we gathered and boarded our bus, and were off to the Potala Palace. Here the times one visits are controlled and our time is 1030. One can not carry water into the Palace as they are happy to sell water there. 

Potala Palace 

Perched upon Marpo Ri hill, 130 meters above the Lhasa valley, the Potala Palace rises a further 170 meters and is the greatest monumental structure in all of Tibet. Early legends concerning the rocky hill tell of a sacred cave, considered to be the dwelling place of the Bodhisattva Chenresi (Avilokiteshvara), that was used as a meditation retreat by Emperor Songtsen Gampo in the seventh century AD. In 637 Songtsen Gampo built a palace on the hill. This structure stood until the seventeenth century, when it was incorporated into the foundations of the greater buildings still standing today. Construction of the present palace began in 1645 during the reign of the fifth Dalai Lama and by 1648 the Potrang Karpo, or White Palace, was completed. The Potrang Marpo, or Red Palace, was added between 1690 and 1694; its construction required the labors of more than 7000 workers and 1500 artists and craftsman. In 1922 the 13th Dalai Lama renovated many chapels and assembly halls in the White Palace and added two stories to the Red Palace. The Potala Palace was only slightly damaged during the Tibetan uprising against the invading Chinese in 1959. Unlike most other Tibetan religious structures, it was not sacked by the Red Guards during the 1960s and 1970s, apparently through the personal intervention of Chou En Lai. As a result, all the chapels and their artifacts are very well preserved.

From as early as the eleventh century the palace was called Potala. This name probably derives from Mt. Potala, the mythological mountain abode of the Bodhisattva Chenresi (Avilokiteshvara / Kuan Yin) in southern India. The Emperor Songtsen Gampo had been regarded as an incarnation of Chenresi. Given that he founded the Potala, it seems likely that the hilltop palace of Lhasa took on the name of the Indian sacred mountain. The Potala Palace is an immense structure, its interior space being in excess of 130,000 square meters. Fulfilling numerous functions, the Potala was first and foremost the residence of the Dalai Lama and his large staff. In addition, it was the seat of Tibetan government, where all ceremonies of state were held; it housed a school for religious training of monks and administrators; and it was one of Tibet's major pilgrimage destinations because of the tombs of past Dalai Lamas. Within the White Palace are two small chapels, the Phakpa Lhakhang and the Chogyal Drubphuk; dating from the seventh century, these chapels are the oldest surviving structures on the hill and also the most sacred. The Potala's most venerated statue, the Arya Lokeshvara, is housed inside the Phapka Lhakhang, and it draws thousands of Tibetan pilgrims each day.

In 1959, the current Dalai Lama fled to India amid riots against the Chinese military occupation of Tibet; he remains in exile today. During the Cultural Revolution (1966-77), the remaining monks were expelled and the abandoned palace was looted and damaged by Chinese soldiers.

After visiting the Potala Palace, we made our way to a local restaurant and had another family style meal of veggies, rice, chicken, yak and pizza. 

We again went walking about the Barkhor market, ending at the Jokhang Temple.

Jokhang Temple is the most revered religious structure in Tibet.  Jokhang means 'House of Buddha'. Located in the center of old Lhasa city, Jokhang Monastery is the prime seat of the Gelugpa (Yellow) Branch of Tibetan Buddhism. It was originally built in 647 AD. Jokhang Temple is the spiritual center of Tibet and the holiest destination for all Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims. Through night and day, there are lots of pilgrims kowtowing in front of Jokhang Temple.  

It is said the site was chosen personally by the wife of King Songtsan Gampo, the Tang Princess Wen Cheng. The princess perceived Wutang, a lake in Lhasa, to be a “devil’s heart”, a source of evil, and had it filled in and the temple built on the site to counteract evil forces. 

Jokhang Temple has architectural features originating from its Tibetan, Tang Dynasty Chinese, Nepalese, and Indian architects and craftsmen. The roof of the Jokhang offers splendid views of the Barkhor (pilgrims' circuit) and the Potala Palace. The golden roofs are superbly crafted with many birds, beasts, bells, and other intricate figures. 

A highlight of the Joking Temple visit was to the Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni. This chapel is rarely open and we were allowed to visit. The chapel is very ornate with amazing woodwork, paintings, decorations of jewels, silver and gold. The main image of Sakyamuni Buddha was being painted with gold paint. The work is so amazing I can not describe.     

After the Jokhang Temple visit, we walked the market's back alleys towards our hotel. During this journey we stopped at a local Tibetan Hand Craft shop where all items are locally made and proceeds return to the local artisans. We did buy a bookmark to be used on our Christmas travel tree and I got a Yak Puppet. He is really KEWL!!!. 

Next we were able to visit a Buddhist Nunnery where we arrived in time to listen to them chanting. This was a great photo opportunity and I think I got some nice images. 

Back at the hotel and getting ready for our briefing.