YOU ARE SAILING ON HISTORY.

 SAILING TO STOKMARKNES:

Due to inclement weather the next few days are in a state of flux, with a few changes. Some ports of call will be missed and we will seek sheltered harbors to wait out rough seas. 



Today we sailed through Risoyrenna, it is a dredged channel in Risoysundet.  It was officially opened on June 25, 1922.  Before the first dredging, which was completed in 1881, it was supposedly possible to ride across the strait at low tide. The dredging makes it possible for larger vessels to pass between Andoya and Hinnoya. Work on the final improvement in the new channel started in September 1997, and it was initially five meters deep and fifty meters wide. It is now  one meter deeper and had doubled in width. It was officially reopened in September 2001.

We are docked at Stokmarknes for 7-8 hours awaiting better weather. This gives us plenty of time to explore the Hurtigruten Museum. 



Sailing to StokmarknesThis museum is the MS Finnmarken preserved in her former glory. MS Finnmarken was delivered in 1956. The ship was building number 788 at Werft, shipyard in Hamburg, Germany.  She sailed in regular rotation with Hurtigruten from 1956 to 1993.

In August 1994, the ship was donated to the Hurtigruten Museum in Stokmarknes. On May 3, 1999, she went to Kaarbø shipyard in Harstad  for sandblasting and preparation for landing. On June 16, 1999, MS "Finnmarken" left the wet elements and was jacked ashore at the Hurtigruten Museum. As one of the world's largest museum pieces, the ship has been on land ever since.

During our last visit to this port we did not have time to explore the museum. I am so glad for this visit. In the museum you realize Hurtigruten is the life blood of the Norwegian Coast.  

After visiting the Hurtigruten Museum you realize you are not sailing on just a ferry or cruise. Hurtigruten has been sailing this coast for over 130 years. 

YOU ARE SAILING ON HISTORY. 



 

 

           Propeller Cabins, where drunk passengers were confined

KING CRAB!!!

 KING CRAB: 

The king crab is a new arrival in Norway. It actually stems from the northern reaches of the Pacific Ocean, and it was previously known in Norway as the “Kamchatka Crab” after the peninsula on the east coast of Siberia. In the 1960s, Soviet biologists started to release these crabs into the Murmansk Fjord. The crab thrived here, and as early as in 1977 the first king crab was caught in Norwegian waters, just west of the border. Since then, the crab population has expanded westwards, and crabs are now to be found off the coast of West Finnmark and Tromso. However, the crab colonies are densest from the North Cape and eastwards.

Fishing for king crab is quota regulated along the east coast of Finnmark, towards Nordkapp. West of Nordkapp there are no quotas to prevent the crab spreading further down the coastline into important baiting areas for other species.

While in the North Cape area, the chef procured fresh king crab for a special meal in Kysten. 

We learned the best king crab weigh between 2-2.5 kilos. Only the male crabs can be harvested. The crab are tagged and by scanning the QR code one can learn about the crab. Further the crab must be killed before cooking and never boiled alive.

The King Crab meal was great, well paced, excellent presentation and service, AMAZING WONDERFUL KING CRAB, great sides. 

                                    The Table Is Set

                         Pan seared scallops from Norway

                         Sauces, aioli, a citrus and butter

                      Chocolate terrine with vanilla gelato   

With our crab we received his tag. By scanning the QR code you can learn a good bit of information, including weight, date caught and who caught him. 

 



I was so full I had to retire for the evening. Lynn went to the daily briefing.

HAMMERFEST

 HAMMERFEST DAY: 



 

The wind is at 50 knots or about 57+MPH. Waves are 2 meters. We are running behind about 20 min.

Soon we will pass Melkoya Island where Norway produces a vast amount of LNG. 

We will be served an energy drink and get to guess the special ingredient. 


 
Our plan is to take the shuttle bus (there is a fee) to the city as we dock about 3K away.

In Hammerfest we want to visit The Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society.  The Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society is the world's second largest club, in terms of number of members. At this moment, the club has more than 282,000 registered members (January 2024)! Yes I am a member.

The Polar Bear Society was founded in 1963 in Hammerfest. The polar bear is on the city’s coat of arms and was therefore chosen as the society’s logo. The strength of the polar bear reflects the willpower and survival skills necessary for living in the Arctic.

Also Hammerfest is the home town of Adolf Lindstrom. There is a statue of him on the waterfront.

The 100NOK each for the shuttle bus was well worth it to get into Hammerfest. 

 

The sidewalks were clear thus making the walking easy. Some street crossings were a challenge. 

We only had 50 min in Hammerfest before the shuttle returned. Miss the bus, miss the ship, they don’t wait. 

It was good we had been here before so off the bus and made our way straight to the Ancient and Royal Polar Bear Society. Made a quick stop in the museum and made some purchases in the gift shop. 



 

 

On the way back to the bus we made sure we passed the statue of Adolf Lindstrom. 

 



Back on the bus with time to spare, rather safe than sorry. 



 

 

KIRKENES WALKABOUT

 Kirkenes Norway 

                            Sunrise and Sunset all in one
 



This morning finds us sailing towards Kirkenes. The Temp is 0 Centigrade  and the wind is 25knots off the bow and our current heading is 234’. 

We should arrive in Kirkenes at 0900 and will be there for about 3 hours. We may see some ice as we arrive. 



This is the furthest point to which we will be sailing as when we leave here we will be sailing back to Bergen. 

Kirkenes gets its name from a church built on a peninsula. We are only 7km from Russia. 

During WWII, Kirkenes housed 300,000 nazi troops given its proximity to the Russian border. Because of this concentration of troops Kirkenes was the second most bombed location in WWII. (Only behind Malta) During the bombings the residents would take shelter in a vast cavern system under the city.  

                                            A bit of snow here


Today the population of Kirkenes is about 3500. 

Until recently the border with Russia was fairly open. But with the Ukraine conflict the border was closed. In Kirkenes the nearby Russian’s would shop in Kirkenes for Champaign and baby diapers. (France prohibits the sale of Champaign to Russia) 

One highlight in Kirkenes is the Northernmost roundabout.

Kirkenes is also noted for its king crab. Here crab will be purchased to be served in the ship’s Kysten restaurant. Yes we have a reservation.

We did a nice walkabout in Kirkenes. We covered a bit over three miles and did not stop and buy anything. We did stop at one souvenir shop near the port. 

Northern Most Roundabout.

Yes the houses do look rather the same here in Kirkenes. This is because when the city was rebuilt, the houses came in pre fabricated from Sweden. IKEA Style

CRAB IS KING 

                                        Liberation Monument

                                          Speed Slow (zone)



Here are some thoughts on the Hurtigruten Ferry Line. #1- we like it, #2 Very good and informative lectures, #3 nice small ships, #4 Great Food and service. Would we do this again - YES WE WOULD! We feel we need to experience this in a different season.

Need to Know Stuff: #1 Your ports of call are usually in an industrial area and you will need to walk to the town centers, or cab. #2 I feel the excursions are expensive. #3 Drinks onboard are not included like on the Expedition Voyages. A beer is about $14.00, as alcohol is heavy taxed in Norway. #4 the upscale dining is an uncharge and well worth it. (Drinks are not included). 

Yet when all is said and done, we really like Hurtigruten.